Roger is currently in the midst of a car restoration project and will probably not add any new obstacles for the foreseeable future. Enjoy the obstacles that are already posted here, and feel free to leave comments indicating suggestions and alternatives for construction.
PAPER BINDER CLIPS: (Pam) One of my favorite ‘jump cups’ for home use are paper binder clips. Just go into an office supply store and purchase binder clips for paper. I put the plastic part around the pvc upright and the metal part straight in front to hold the bar. What size clips you use will depend upon the size of your pvc.
VELCRO: (Pam) I’ve also seen people put the loop part of sticky Velcro (use craft or industrial strength) on the pvc uprights. The hook side is on the bar. This is worth it for a dog who needs to move to height in very slow increments.
Dura 3/4″ Snap Clamp: (Mike) Save yourself a lot of time. Just google “Dura 3/4″ Snap Clamp” the actual part number you can google as well. That is 463-007. It is the same part number with Dura and Spears. Just cut it in half and snap it on you pvc pipe. One snap clamp makes 2 cups ready to use in about 10 seconds. Cost is about .60 cents for two!
TEE CONNECTOR AND RUBBER BAND: (Andrew Geffert) Try this: Cut a Tee connector in half, and use a rubber band to keep it in place. The Tee connector should be the next size up from your verticle pipe size. If you are working with 1/2″ PVC, us a 3/4″ Tee connector. The next bigger size will slip over uprights. To get it to stay, first put a rubber band around the upright so the half tee rests around the rubber band. The half round will then hold the cross bar.
BUY ONLINE: (Carol) Try this site for the saddle clips: http://www.flexpvc.com
SHOWER CURTAIN ROD HOLDER: (Suzanne) I went to Lowes, Valu and Home Depot looking for something that could reasonably substitute for them. A really helpful Home Depot worker helped me discover that 1/2 of a shower curtain rod holder holds 1″ pipe perfectly. I had to purchase 2 for each jump because the other end is a complete circle and I wanted the bar to easily fall away if she hit it while going over.
MYSTERY ITEMS (photo below): (Wendy) I was still able to make the jump cups, but I had to improvise by adding another piece. I’m not sure what it is called, but here is a picture. The piece is threaded on one end, which I screwed into the saddle. The other end fits 1″ pipe, so I inserted the “cup” piece of pvc into this end. It works well, but I ended up having to cut my jump bar a little shorter, so it would fit on the improvised jump cups.
If you have something you used not listed above, please leave a comment!
The pause table is a big challenge for a dog zooming through an agility course. The dog has to climb onto the table and sit or lie down for five seconds, the antithesis to the speed required in the rest of the course. Assembling a pause table like we’ve built here will take four to six hours and will cost about $60 (not including the non-skid surface).
We won’t be building tunnels or chutes here at Instant Agility.Here then are the results of my researching in looking for the least expensive:
Affordable Agility (affordableagility.com) has tunnels, barrels, and chutes. Their competition-qualit
y items are the cheapest I have found on the internet. They also have “practice” versions, which are not as sturdy. I believe they sell the chutes and the barrels as separate items, so be sure you are ordering all the pieces that you need. Practice tunnel ($55-160), Competition tunnel ($150-$245), Practice chute/barrel combo ($95), Competition chute only (+/-$100), Competition “budget” barrel only ($45).
Welcome to Instant Agility
Learn how to build inexpensive but sturdy agility equipment that will give you and your dog hours of fun--and then learn how to put the equipment to use.
We hope to put up a new obstacle or training piece fairly frequently.